Virus Shawl Pattern

Here, below the pictures, you'll find the written instructions for the Virus Shawl in US terminology. Below that there are two downloadable & printable PDF files, one is the pattern in US terminology and the other is in UK terminology.

Here are four shawls I've made from four different brands and yarn types.

Here are four shawls I've made from four different brands and yarn types.

This lovely triangle crochet shawl design is available as a free pattern (in chart form and via YouTube videos), links available via Ravelry.com. The original designer is not known.

I started writing easy to read notes for my own purposes and then decided I should publish it on my website. Although I am British, I have written this in US terminology because this is how I learnt crochet terms.

How Big To Make It? How Many Rows?

You can make this shawl to any size that suits you. You may wish to carefully consider which row to finish on as some rows look better as a final row than others. Out of the many hundreds of pictures published of finished Virus Shawls by different people, the most popular finishing row seems to be one which has a chain stitch between most of the double crochet stitches (e.g. as in row eleven – see the written pattern below).

As for how many rows to do, this sounds like asking “how big to make it” but not necessarily!  If you make a shawl with bulky yarn and a large hook size, it will come out much bigger than a shawl with the same number of rows using fingering weight yarn and a smaller hook. Whichever yarn and hook size you use, just keep going until the shawl is the desired size.

Supplies

Suggested length of yarn – at least 500m. My favourite Virus Shawl so far used 800m.

Use at least the hook size suggested on the label of the yarn you are using. You may achieve better draping results by going up a hook size bigger than the one suggested but this is not critical.

You will also need scissors and a yarn needle.

Gauge – not important

Helpful tips/notes

Changing colors and/or starting a new supply of yarn – I would suggest you do this along the top edge (beginning or end of a row) where joins/knots/weaving in ends won’t be so noticeable.

There are no chain stitches before or after any groups of 10DC stitches (including the rows where there is a ch1 between all the DC stitches).

Row stitch counts numbers don’t include chain stitches in the stitch count and some rows weren’t worth calculating because they are mostly chain stitches.

The Virus Shawl pattern essentially repeats after every fourth row, although this won’t become obvious until you have worked a quite a few more rows than this.

To Start: chain 10, slipstitch to form a ring.

Row One (20 stitches)
Ch3 (counts as a DC), 19 DC in the ring.

Row Two (20 stitches)
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC), then DC in each DC.
DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Three (20 stitches)
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
* ch1 then DC into the first DC of the previous row.
Repeat from * 18 more times.
The last DC is worked into the top of the ch3 of the previous row.

Row Four
You will be creating a row of loops all the way across the work made up of chain stitches.
Turn your work, ch10, SC in the second ch1 space of the previous row,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Five (46 stitches)
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
9DC in the large chain space,
SC in the first ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in ch7 space
10DC again in the next ch7 space, (looks like 20DC in a row across two arches)
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch10 space.

Row Six (44 stitches)
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC), DC in the each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each of the next 10DC stitches,
DC in each of the next 10DC stitches, (looks like 20DC in a row across two arches)
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Seven (40 stitches)
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
* ch1 then DC, repeat from * 8 more times.
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
** DC then ch1, repeat from ** 18 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
*** DC then ch1, repeat from *** 8 more times
DC into the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

Row Eight
This is very similar to row four with a mixture of ch4 loops and ch7 loops.
Turn your work, ch10, SC in the second ch1 space of the previous row,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Nine (72 stitches)
This row is similar to row five.
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
9DC in the large chain space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
10DC again in the next ch7 space, (looks like 20DC in a row across two arches)
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch10 space

Row Ten (68 stitches)
This row is similar to row six.
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
DC in the each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each of the next 10DC stitches,
DC in each of the next 10DC stitches, (looks like 20DC in a row across two arches)
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Eleven (60 stitches)
This row is similar to row seven.
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
* ch1 then DC, repeat from * 8 more times.
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
** DC then ch1, repeat from ** 8 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
*** DC then ch1, repeat from *** 18 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
**** DC then ch1, repeat from **** 8 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
***** DC then ch1, repeat from ***** 8 more times
DC into the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

Row Twelve
This row is similar to row eight.
Turn your work, ch10, SC in the 2nd ch1 space of the previous row,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, skip 3 spaces, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch4, skip ch1 space, SC in next ch1 space,
ch7, DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Thirteen (98 stitches)
This row is similar to rows five and nine.
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
9DC in the large chain space of the row below,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
10DC again in the next ch7 space, (looks like 20DC in a row across two arches)
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch7 space,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
10DC in the ch10 space.

Row Fourteen (92 stitches)
This row is similar to rows six and ten.
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
DC in the each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each of the next 10DC stitches,
DC in each of the next 10DC stitches, (looks like 20DC in a row across two arches)
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
SC in the ch4 space,
ch4,
SC in the next ch4 space,
DC in each DC,
DC in the top of the ch3 stitch of the previous row.

Row Fifteen (80 stitches)
This row is similar to rows seven and eleven.
Turn your work, ch3 (counts as a DC),
(*a) ch1 then DC, repeat from (*a) 8 more times.
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*b) DC then ch1, repeat from (*b) 8 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*c) DC then ch1, repeat from (*c) 8 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*d) DC then ch1, repeat from (*d) 18 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*e) DC then ch1, repeat from (*e) 8 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*f) DC then ch1, repeat from (*f) 8 more times, then one more DC
(Reminder – no ch1 here)
skip the ch4 space then:-
(*g) DC then ch1, repeat from (*g) 8 more times
DC into the top of the ch3 from the previous row.

Need your virus shawl bigger?

Now that you have the hang of the way the repeats work, keep going until you are happy with the size. The most popular row to finish on is the one that has a ch1 between the groups of ten DC stitches (e.g. the one that looks like row 15).

Downloadable Written Patterns (US and UK Terminology)

PDF file - Virus Shawl in US terminology - click here, opens in a new window

PDF file - Virus Shawl in UK terminology - click here, opens in a new window